Image: Emma Soyer / Formerly attributed to Andrew Geddes · Public domain
The Gastronomic Regenerator
- Year
- 1846
- Era
- 19th century
- Origin
- England · Europe
- Language
- English
- Category
- English 19th C
The Gastronomic Regenerator presents the professional repertoire of Alexis Soyer, chef of London's Reform Club, where his purpose-built kitchens were among the most technologically advanced of the era. Issued in 1846, the volume sets out an extensive system of recipes alongside descriptions and plans of the Reform's gas-fired ranges and service arrangements, documenting the organisation of a grand mid-Victorian club kitchen and helping to define the celebrity chef in English print culture.
Cooking from this book
Cock a Leekie à la Wemyss
A Scottish classic given to Soyer by an aristocratic correspondent and printed among the amateur receipts of the Reform Club's chef. The slow simmering of leeks with prunes is the hallmark of this hearty winter soup-stew.
To some good stock made the previous night from an old fowl, or of veal, add three pounds of the white part of the leeks, and let the whole boil slowly for three hours, then add a skinned fowl (old or young), cut into neat pieces, and three dozen of good prunes. Let all simmer together for one hour longer. Season with salt and white pepper, and you will have good cock a leekie.
N.B. In frost the leeks require less boiling.
Reproduced from the public-domain text via Project Gutenberg. Spelling lightly modernised; the headnote is editorial.
Brown Sauce (Foundation Sauce No. 1)
Soyer's master brown sauce, the cornerstone of the Reform Club kitchen, referenced throughout The Gastronomic Regenerator. The quantities are scaled for a grand dinner; a quarter batch will suit a domestic cook, and the finished sauce should be the colour of a horse chestnut.
Put a quarter of a pound of butter in a large thick-bottomed stewpan, rub it all over the bottom, then peel and cut ten large onions in halves, with which cover the bottom; then take two pounds of lean ham cut into slices, which lay over the onions; having ready cut in large slices twenty pounds of leg of beef and veal, put it over the ham, and place the stewpan over a sharp fire; let it remain a quarter of an hour, then with a large wooden spoon move the whole mass round, but keeping the onions still at the bottom. Keeping it over the fire, and stirring it occasionally, until the bottom is covered with a light brown glaze, then prick the meat with a fork, take off the stewpan, and put some ashes upon the fire, to deaden its heat; place the stewpan again over it, and let it stand half an hour longer, stirring it twice during that time; the bottom will then be covered with a thick but clear brown glaze; fill it up with fourteen quarts of water or sixteen of light stock, then add three turnips, two carrots, four blades of mace, and a bunch of ten sprigs of parsley, six sprigs of thyme, and four bay-leaves; leave it over the fire until it boils, then place it on the corner, add a quarter of a pound of salt; skim off all the fat, and let it simmer for two hours, adding two quarts of cold water by degrees, to clarify it and keep it to its original quantity; then skim it again, and pass the stock through a fine cloth into a basin.
Then proceed as follows: put one pound of butter into a deep stewpan, place it over the fire, stirring it until it melts; then stir in a pound and a half of best flour, mix it well, and keep stirring it over the fire until it assumes a brownish tinge; then take it from the fire, and keep stirring the roux until partly cold, then pour in the stock quickly, still stirring it; place it over a sharp fire, stirring it until it boils, then place it at the corner of the stove, and let it simmer an hour and a half; by keeping it skimmed, you will take off all the butter, and the sauce will become clear and transparent; place it again over a sharp fire, and keep it stirred until it adheres to the back of the spoon, when pass it through a tammie into a basin, stirring it round occasionally until cold, and use it where required. Should the colour of the sauce be too pale, add a few spoonfuls of brown gravy.
Reproduced from the public-domain text via Project Gutenberg. Spelling lightly modernised; the headnote is editorial.