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The Curry Cook's Assistant Daniel Santiagoe 1889

The Curry Cook's Assistant

Daniel Santiagoe

Year
1889
Origin
Sri Lanka/UK · South Asia
Language
English
Category
South Asia

The Curry Cook's Assistant, compiled by Daniel Santiagoe and first issued in 1889, is among the earliest English-language curry manuals written by a South Asian author rather than a British colonial intermediary. Drawing on Sri Lankan culinary practice, it offered metropolitan readers practical instruction in curries, chutneys and accompaniments, and stands as an important early instance of an indigenous voice shaping Victorian Britain's appetite for Indian and Ceylonese cookery.

Cooking from this book

Chicken Moley

Santiagoe's Madras-style chicken curry, finished with cream and lemon, is one of the iconic dishes of his book and an early printed English version of the Anglo-Indian 'moley'. Cook gently over a low flame, the modern equivalent being a burner set just above a simmer.

Ingredients (one good-sized Chicken, about a pound or more, with Madras Curry stuffs):

  • 1 chicken (about a pound or more)
  • 1 large onion or a few small ones, sliced
  • 1 large spoonful of fresh butter
  • 2 tablespoons coriander powder
  • 1 tablespoon rice powder
  • 1 saltspoon saffron
  • A pinch of cumin powder and fenugreek (if procurable)
  • A bit of cinnamon, 2 cloves (if you wish spices)
  • 1/2 teaspoon green ginger, chopped fine
  • A small garlic, chopped fine
  • 1/2 pint of milk or good gravy
  • 2 large spoons of cream (to finish)
  • A few drops of lemon juice
  • Salt to taste
  • A little cayenne, if preferred hot

Mode:

Cut up the chicken in half of each joint. Keep it to a side. Fry the sliced onions in a stew-pan with a large spoon of butter. When the onions are nice and brown, just fry the chicken in it less than half done. Take it out and keep to a side. Now fry the curry powder till it is nice and dark brown, then add the chicken, more onions, and the other things (garlic, ginger, spices) into the frying curry powder, and add half a pint of good gravy. Set on a slow fire for 20 minutes. When serving, add two large spoons of cream. If very dry, add a little more gravy. A few drops of lemon will flavour it. Serve with boiled rice, or treat as an ordinary entrée.

Reproduced from the public-domain text via Project Gutenberg. Spelling lightly modernised; the headnote is editorial.

Beef Curry (Kabob or Cavap Curry)

A striking kebab-style curry in which cubes of beef are skewered alternately with rounds of ginger and garlic on slender sticks before being simmered in spiced milk. The 'thin sticks' would today be replaced by short wooden cocktail skewers, about 8 to 10 cm long.

Ingredients:

  • 1 1/2 lb lean beef (tender part)
  • 2 tablespoons coriander powder
  • 1 tablespoon rice powder
  • 1 1/2 saltspoons saffron
  • A good pinch of cumin powder
  • 1 good pint of fresh milk or gravy
  • 1 large onion or a few small ones, sliced
  • Ginger, about 2 inches long
  • 2 long budded garlics
  • 1 large spoon fresh butter
  • Spices
  • Salt to taste
  • A spoonful of cream and a few drops of lemon, to finish
  • Tamarind, if preferred (nicer than lemon)

Mode:

Cut the meat in half-inch squares; the ginger as round as a threepenny piece, and the garlic the same size but thicker. Now sharpen a few thin sticks with points to stick the meat (as large as champagne bottle wire, three to four inches long). Stick one piece of meat, another of garlic, another of meat, and one of ginger (a piece of meat must be between garlic and ginger). Proceed as above till you finish the meat. Place a stew-pan on the fire; put in the butter and the sliced onions. When nicely browned add the curry stuffs and the meat. Let the whole fry gently in the butter for five minutes; then pour the milk in and let it simmer gently for 20 minutes. When serving, add a spoonful of cream and a few drops of lemon, and send to table with boiled rice (separate).

Reproduced from the public-domain text via Project Gutenberg. Spelling lightly modernised; the headnote is editorial.

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